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Fortaleza
The fifth largest town in Brazil. It is a booming centre of the Northeast and an important tourist centre. Its beaches are very popular all year round. Because of their incredible beauty, this region is often compared to the Caribbean. |
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| The City |
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The city of Fortaleza was founded in 1810 and is today the fifth largest town in Brazil in terms of number of population. It is an important tourist centre. Its beaches are very popular among both Brazilian and foreign tourists. The attractions of the city include the Museum of Popular Art and Culture, which is situated in the same building as the headquarters of EMCETUR (Empresa Cearense de Turismo), formerly the local prison, where there are also more than a hundred small shops that sell arts and crafts of the region; the Central Market, with more than 600 stalls with great variety of articles, from arts and crafts, embroidery and hammocks to medicinal herbs and items for domestic use; the Jose de Alencar Theatre, with its art nouveau ironwork, built in 1910 and restored in 1991; the Historical and Anthropological Museum of Ceara; the Museum of Art of the Federal University of Ceara; and the Centre for the Preservation of the Railway.
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| History |
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The history of Ceara begins with the creation of the "Captaincy of Siara", granted to Antonio Cardoso de Barros in 1535. In 1603, an expedition commanded by Pero Coelho de Souza, a native of the Azores, founded a colony known as Nova Luzitania. One member of the expedition was a young man 17 years old, Martim Soares Moreno, who is considered the real founder of Ceara. He studied the language and customs of the local indigenous people and established friendly relations with them. In return they lent him valuable support in defeating the French and the Dutch who were also trying to colonise the region. In 1619, after a long struggle against these invaders, which included being shipwrecked and taken prisoner, Soares Moreno obtained a royal charter granting him the title of Lord of the Captaincy of Ceara, a position he occupied for many years. His romance with the Indian lady Iracema was immortalised by the Brazilian writer Jose de Alencar in his book entitled "Iracema". Ceara was made part of the State of Maranhao and Grao-Para in 1621. It was invaded two more times, in 1637 and 1649, by the Dutch, who occupied the region which is now the State of Pernambuco, and remained subordinate to that State until getting its autonomy in 1799. The development of cattle ranching in Pernambuco and Bahia led ranchers to occupy the interior of Ceara. Small towns started to grow near the large farms or at places where troops coming from the south were accustomed to rest.
In 1824, Ceara joined the Confederation of the Equator, along with the States of Pernambuco, Rio Grande do Norte and Paraiba. The State started to develop in the second half of the nineteenth century, with the coming of steamships, railways, gas lighting and the telephone. It was the first Brazilian province to free slaves in 1884 and also one of the first to adhere to the Republic.
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| General Inf |
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TELEPHONE AREA CODE 085/
CLIMATE The climate in Fortaleza is generally hot and dry, but this is offset by fresh breezes coming in off the ocean.
CLOTHING As for most resort cities in Brazil, casual lightweight clothes are the order of the day.
ELECTRICITY 220 V
AIRPORT The airport, which receives international and national flights, is 7 Km out of town.
BUSINESS HOURS Normal business hours apply in Fortaleza. Banks open between 10am and 4pm.
TAXIS The city has both normal and radio taxi services. Check with hotel reception for the best option from your area.
MEDICAL Check with your hotel for information on the nearest clinic.
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| How To Get There |
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The international airport, Pinto Martins, is situated 7km south of the city. The Hotel district can be reached in as little as 15 minutes.
We recommend transfer with Driver / Guide, since you will be able to find out many useful details about Fortaleza and the surrandings during this short ride.
Specially trained guides will receive clients with a name board and, on the way to the hotel, they will give all the necessary information about arrangements for the client´s stay in Fortaleza.
For those who opt not to make use of this important service, other transport is available:
From the airport there is an air-conditioned bus that leaves about every 30 minutes. It goes along the coast line, through the hotel district and to the centre. It costs about 3 dollars.
There are also taxi companies at the airport. Probably the easiest way is to pay a set-fare in advance at one of the stalls at the airport (about US$12 to Iracema beach).
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| Restaurants |
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Great food, especially seafood and dried meat with very regional taste. Keep following options for the evening and enjoy eating with fingers on the beach during the sunny day.
SEAFOOD
@ Cemoara XXX $$$ - Av. Abolicao, 3340 (Meireles - Flat San Martin), tel 263-5001; cc: Ae, D, Mc, 12h/24h sun. 12h/17h. Very fresh ingredients, recipes are wide ranged under french and portuguese influence.
REGIONAL
@@ Cantinho do Faustino X $$ - R. Delmiro Gouveia, 1520(Varjota), tel. 267-5348; cc: all, 12h/15h 18h/24h. Sun 12h/16h. Closed mon. Simple ambiance, good service and great recipies mixing regional ingredients with criativity.
@ Colher de Pau X $ - R. Frederico Borges, 204 (Varjota), tel. 219-3605; cc: all, 11h/1h. Closed mon. Always in demand, it is pleasant to sit on the open air veranda, on the other side of the street.
@ Colher de Pau X $ - R. dos Tabajaras, 412 (Iracema), tel. 219-3605; cc: all, 18h/1h. Closed mon.
FRENCH @ Nostradamos XXX $$$ - R. Joaquim Nabuco, 166(Meireles), tel. 242-8500; cc: all, 19h/1h. Closed sun. The menue was elaborated by chef Laurent Suaudeau, which stands for two things: Exquisite cuisine at salty prices. Exellent exemple for the fantastic blend of french cuisine with local spices.
@ Marcel XXX $$$ - Hotel Holliday Inn , (Praia de Iracema), tel. 219-7246; cc: all, 12-14:30; 19h/1h. Sat 19h/1h; Closed sun.
VARIETY @ Le Dinner XX $$$ - Rua Alfonso Celso, (Aldeota), tel. 224-2627; cc: all, 19:30h/1h. Closed sun. Reservation necessary. French and oriental mix.
@ Alt Heidelberg XX $$ - Av. Alberto Sá, 1315, (Papicu), tel. 265-3308; cc: Ae, D, Mc, 19:00h/1h. Fri and Sat 12h/15h 19:00h/1h Closed sun. Reservation necessary. French and oriental mix.
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| Night Life |
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The Capital of Ceara has a great night life. With its many night-clubs and "danceterias", it is definitely the place for young people to have fun. You can try dancing 'forro', a typical sensual dance, or if you don´t feel up to giving it a go, hours of entertainmnet can be spent just watching the agile dancers. For each day of the week, one club is chosen by the locals to be the meeting point for that evening. It starts on the Monday at Pirata Bar on Iracema Beach. On Tuesdays you can enjoy the beach bar, Subindo ao Ceu. On Wednesdays the Clube do Vaqueiro is a popular venue and on Thursdays go to the all the beach bars at Praia do Futuro; here the stalls stay open late into the night, serving fresh seafood and providing music and an atmosphere to please the crowds. At the weekends the city turns into a party, where night clubs, bars and restaurants lay on a great variety of live music and comedy shows. For the older people, the beautiful district of Iracema, with its French colonial houses, has a wide range of attractive bars and restaurants looking over the water,with the skyline of the city of Fortaleza as a backdrop. Also, a famous handicraft market, which takes place daily from 18:00 hrs onwards, is located on the main avenue; walk along the city beach and buy beautiful handicrafts of the region, such as lace and sandbottles.
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Night Life
The Capital of Ceara has a great night life. For each day of the week, one club is chosen by the locals to be the meeting point for that evening. It starts on the Monday at Pirata Bar on Iracema Beach.
Crafts
Fruit of the most genuine popular manifestation, the craft still keeps characteristic from its first artisans, the indigenous people that inhabited the territory from Ceará in the pré-colonial period. Since then the techniques were passed on from father to son. The creativity and the simplicity of Ceará's artisans can also be seen in works in bobbin laces, mazes, wood and clay. Usually, the work keeps a beauty that surpasses time.
Among the techniques used in the State there are:
L A C E S
Instruments: bobbins and headed pins or, almost always, the thorn of the coradeiro or mandacaru, pillow. Production Centers: in the artisans' own residence, at the coast.
R M A Z E S
Instruments: fabric fixated on a wood grating, pins, needles and line. Production Centers: in the artisans' own residence, at the coast.
B A S K E T R Y A N D B R A I D I N G
Raw materials: bamboo (taquara, to make waterspouts and gutters; taquara, to make baskets; taquari to make birdcages; boards to make rockets, to pick olho de carnauba and to do make pífaros); vine (more resistant than the shaft, to do caçuá; on the donkey goes the cangalha and over it, the caçuá) . Production Centers: Sobral, Russian, Limoeiro do Norte, Jaguaruana, Aracati, Massapê, Crateús, Baturité and Camocim.
C E R A M I C S (utilitarian and for entertainment)
Production Centers: Fortaleza, Rattlesnake, Ipú and Juazeiro do Norte. Main pieces: "quartinha," jar, pot, little doe, plate, filter, basin, pitcher, piggy banks, capitação-de-pé-de-cana, coffeepot and balaia (utilitarian), ornamental and entertaiment (mud puppets, rafts, etc).
L E A T H E R
Products sold in larger scale: sandals, shoes, footwear in general. Points of Sale: fairs in the interior and shopping malls at the capital. Most traditional and typical products: clothes and harness, hat, short jacket, gloves, "perneiras," saddles. Points of Sale: small workshops of the urban zones of cattle areas, such as; Aracoiaba, Itapiúna, Crato, Morada Nova and Jaguaribe. Other products: belts, suitcases, ornamental objects, "pirogravuras," "penduricalhos," rugs, cortinas. Production centers: Fortaleza, Jaguaribe and Juazeiro do Norte.
W E A V I N G Main product: hammocks (utilitarian and for decoration) Techniques: with "roca" and spindle Production Centers: Fortaleza and Jaguaribe.
M E T A L Types: tinwork, ironwork, cutlery, etc, Products: buckets, mug, basin, glass, grater, lamp, saucepan, scythes, net trappers, rattles for the cattle, horseshoes, gates, "passarinheiras" rifles, etc. Production Centers: Juazeiro do Norte, Fortaleza.
W O O D
Tools: basic utensils for woodworking. Products: pieces of furniture, from the simplest and rustic until the finest, machinery of mills, barrels, and sculptures. Production Centers: Fortaleza, Canindé, Cascavel, Juazeiro do Norte (furniture), Barbalha (machinery of cane mills), Fortaleza (sculptures).
G R A P H I C A R T S
Main product: "xilogravura" for illustration of layers of line pamphlets, showing illustration of singers, herdsmen, bandits, oxen, birds and animals of our fauna, much found at the Northeastern fairs.
I M A G I N A R Y
Concrete proof of the passion of the people from Ceará for its faiths in its saints. Products: saints' image. Producion Centers: Juazeiro do Norte and Canindé, two Centers that stand out as places of mystic-religious pilgrimage.
S O U V E N I R S
Products commonly found at Fortaleza's seafront and at the stores of the tourist centers: rafts in miniature, turtle objects and decoration objects in general.
Not into pampering or fluff? Canoa Quebrada has the charm
BRAZIL
Not into pampering or fluff? Canoa Quebrada kicks back with charm
Forget the margaritas, this 'real' fishing village in the northern part of the country trades the tourist stuff for pristine beaches and white-sand dunes.
BY TODD LEWAN
Associated Press
CANOA QUEBRADA, Brazil - You know you're in for a tough day at the shore when the red, clay cliffs are already baking at 9 in the morning, and Daisy, the mule that's supposed to be carrying tourists down the cliffs to the sand, is pooped out under a palm tree.
But there was no way I was going to let a little sun-scorched sand keep me off the beach. I had traveled far to reach the northern shoulder of Brazil. And this was Canoa Quebrada, a slice of paradise that made the airbrushed posters of the Caribbean on the wall of my travel agent's office look washed out in comparison.
After hotfooting it down the ramshackle wood stairway between a fault in the cliffs, I scampered across the sand and took refuge under a wide, straw-topped umbrella.
A barefooted fisherman trudged slowly past, a roll of shrimp netting on his bare, sun-browned back. I called out to him, waved.
He stopped.
Say, I said, do you know if they serve margaritas at any huts down on the beach?
He gave me a quizzical look, lifted his sun-blotched shoulders, turned and trudged on to work, shaking his head.
OK, dumb question.
NO FRILLS
No, Canoa Quebrada isn't another primped, polished resort with barmen at the ready to make margaritas all hours of the day. It's a fishing village, a real fishing village, and they take creature comforts, well, on the lighter side.
Sure, there are a few trinket and T-shirt shops along the main drag -- a red, sandy road the locals jokingly refer to as Broadway -- as well as two or three watering holes and a few brick, stick and vine places to nosh. And there is a Cyber Cafe, run by a couple of Italian transplants.
But I wasn't here for pampering.
I was in Canoa Quebrada -- Broken Canoe, in Portuguese -- for the sweeping ocean views, the salty, soft sea breezes, the driftwood-colored sand squeezed between blood-red, wind-carved falesias -- stone cliffs -- and a palate of azure Atlantic.
ENDLESS SHORELINE
You can hike dunes as white as sugar. You can splash about in sun-gilded, natural pools left behind by the tides. You can ride the backs of donkeys up and down an endless ribbon of shoreline, all the while listening to the rollers thump and break on newly wet sand.
For 10 bucks, you can hop a ride on a jangada, the log rafts used by the fishermen of northeastern Brazil, and let the winds take you out to the darker waters of the deep ocean.
Or you can go buggy.
I had a guide, Ermilson Bernardo, 29, drive me in a dune buggy to seven of the most pristine beaches I have ever laid eyes on -- and I've seen the Greek isles. The three-hour ride set me back $40. It was worth every nickel.
BUGGY TO HEIGHTS
Bernardo was polite, friendly, and intent on having me see even the tiniest, most minuscule details that composed the mosaic of his native shore. More than a half-dozen times, he stopped the buggy and led me through caverns and faults and other natural marvels such as the Devil's Throat.
That was a cleft in the cliffs a couple of miles east of town. Underground aquifers and the tides had, over the years, eroded and carved caves and jagged, tooth-like outcroppings.
The cliffs hugging the shore changed in hue from auburn to blush to violet, from driftwood to gold to coral. Sometimes I imagined seeing a cathedral in those cliffs, and other times pyramids, and other times trees and clouds and giant toes and cactuses and the muscled arms of sea gods, and even the finlike sails of jangadas.
No doubt the highlight of my tour was when we buggied up to the top of the highest dune on Ponta Grossa beach, 33 miles east of Canoa Quebrada.
Standing there atop the dune, all around us were sea and sky and sand, all sun-drenched and timeless, majestic and uncluttered.
Below, the sun shone brassy on the wave crests. The clouds painted splotches on a topaz sea. In the distant Atlantic, white fins jutted from the horizon a cluster of jangadas.
To me they looked like butterflies posing on a spread of sapphires.
VISITING CANOA QUEBRADA
Getting there: All of Brazil's major airlines -- Varig, TAM, VASP and Gol -- offer daily service from the gateway cities of Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo to the northeastern region of the country. Fly to Fortaleza, capital of Ceara, and then either rent a car or hop on a bus and head 100 miles due east along the BR-304 highway to Canoa Quebrada. There are frequent departures to Canoa Quebrada, and bus fare from Fortaleza is about $10; economical rental cars can be had at a reasonable $35 a day, but pay the extra $15 a day and get one with air conditioning.
Climate: Hot, and the sun is strong. Temperatures in this tropical region are around 80 degrees at night and 95 degrees in the daytime. Steady, strong coastal breezes will give you much-needed heat relief. It rains more often between June and August, the South American winter, but the downpours are usually fleeting.
What and where to eat: Seafood is what they do best here. Try the Bistro Natural (011-088-421-7162) and the Tenda do Cumbe (011-088-421-7252) for great salads, fish and side dishes of manioc flour, white rice, sliced tomatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions and red beans to go with your fresh fish. The typical seafood dishes are amarela, beijupira, pargo, cavala and robalo, salted lightly and moistened with a touch of lime juice and garlic, and then broiled.
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