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Salvador
It is affectionately said that "when Bahians are not actually participating in a festival they are rehearsing for one." The people of Bahia, a fusion of Africans, Native Americans and Europeans, are always looking for a good time. Now imagine this with colonial architecture and marvellous beaches...they call it "the land of happiness". |
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| The City |
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Salvador is an unique place, where a magical air intermingles with reality to form an unique harmony. It begins with the religious syncretism that unites all the saints and orixa. Equally fascinating is its striking setting of narrow winding streets and steep hills that divide the city in two: the Upper City and the Lower City. Connected by the famous Lacerda Elevator that carries passengers in four cabins, there is a distance of 72 meters that separates the two cities, which is also bridged by the Goncalves and Pilar trolleys which run on inclined planes, and modern avenues that contrast with the historical aspect of the old city.
Founded by Tome de Souza in March of 1549, and blessed with sunshine almost all the year round, this city maintains unaltered by the passage of the years the enchantment of its churches, townhouses, mansions, fortresses and architectural ensembles. The Pelourinho area - one of the most important vestiges of Brazil's colonial architecture - forms the heart of Salvador's Historic District, which extends from the Terreiro de Jesus to the Praca dos Quinze Misterios. The most important relics of Brazil's rich heritage are in this area, such as the Sao Francisco Church, also known as the Gold Church, and the Basilica Cathedral.
The regions perfect climate, rich folklore and fertile environment have had a nurturing effect on Bahia's people; the" baianos" are warm, strikingly handsome and deeply creative.
Their love of spontaneity, joy and beauty sets the atmosphere of their streets and the tone of their religious ceremonies and festivals. In Bahia, each and every day is a cause of celebration.
Salvador is also known as the "Land of Todos os Santos" (all Saints) , or the "Land of the Orixas" (the gods) brought from West Africa by the "Yoruba" slaves. Despite the city's pride in having a church for each day of the year, throughout the city there are hundreds of "terreiros" - Candomble houses. With its dynamically colored clothing and necklaces, rhythmic drumming, dancers in trance and singing summoning the gods and saints, Candomble, among all the expressions of Afro-Brazilian religion, is in a class by itself.
Another outstanding expression of Bahian folklore is the "Capoeira", a combat/dance, popular among young men, based on the movements and gestures of African dancing. It is practiced with the musical accompaniment of the "berimbau", a wooden "gourd" attached to a wooden bow strung with wire, and plucked with a coin. In Brazil, the slaves transformed these movements and gestures into a form of hand-to-hand combat. Today, "capoeira" is once again a dance and its blows have become solely symbolic gestures sliding harmlessly past the opponents body.
Not to be forgotten are the beaches and islands facing the city of Salvador, where one can find the calmness of kilometers and kilometers of white sand on weekdays and the gaiety and typical happiness of the locals during the weekends on famous beaches as Itapua and Piata.
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| History |
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Salvador da Bahia was, according to tradition, founded on All Saints' day (Nov. 1) 1501, giving rise to the naming of the bay as Bahia de Todos os Santos. In 1549 Portuguese settlers arrived to found a defensive city at the mouth of the bay. Salvador da Bahia became the capital of the new colonies of Brazil and remained so for the next three centuries.
The city's wealth initially came from sugar cane export followed closely by tobacco cultivation. Cattle raising in the interior and diamond and gold mining, increased the city's richness. Today the results of this affluent period can be seen in the numerous examples of luxuriously decorated churches and other colonial buildings.
The first slaves were brought to Salvador early in the 16th century from the west coast of Africa. Slave numbers increased rapidly giving the city the largest African population of Brazil. The slaves that arrived in Bahia guarded their culture and traditions under the guise of different catholic rituals. This careful preservation of African traditions has led to a rich cultural diversity in the region. Bahia is called as the Soul of Brazil or the Africa of Brazil. Traditional Bahian cuisine includes many of the ingredients that you might find in any West African country.
Other African traditons that have survived into present day life include Candomble and other religious rites, Capoeira, a dance style combat form and many musical rhythms.
The seat of government was moved to Rio in 1763 as the decline of the sugar industry and the increase in coffee production in the more southern states moved major economic activity to the city of Rio de Janeiro.
Nowadays Salvador is a monument to the colonial history of Brazil, as well as the centre of Afro-Brazilian culture.
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| General Inf |
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TELEPHONE AREA CODE
071/
CLIMATE
Salvador lies within the tropics and enjoys a year-round temperature between 20o and 30o Centigrade. In the summer it is not as humid as Rio for instance, as soft winds blow in from the Atlantic. Unlike other northern states, Bahia has regular periods of rain. It is not uncommon to have rainfall for several days in a row.
CLOTHING
Light weight clothing is suitable all year round. Casual clothes are the norm here.
ELECTRICITY
110 V
AIRPORT
The capital has an international airport, about 30 km from the centre. Most hotels can be reached driving along the beach road from the airport.
HOTELS
Salvador has a wide range of hotels catering for all kinds of visitors from businessmen to sunseekers, low-budget to luxury.
BUSINESS HOURS
Most offices and stores are open from 9 am to 6 pm, Monday through Friday. Stores are also open on Saturday from 10am to 1pm, while most of the large shopping centers, open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 10pm. Salvador has a number of 24-hour convenience stores, many of which are located at, or close to, main gas stations. Banks are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 4pm.
TAXIS
Salvador has an extensive fleet of taxis which can be hailed in the streets, as well as a series of special taxis operated by licensed companies, which can be found at the airport, hotels or booked by phone. From the international airport and the main shopping centers most of the special taxis work on a fixed rate by area, which is paid in advance at the company's own desk above, which the price must be displayed.
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| How To Get There |
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The international airport, 2 de Julho, is situated 30km north of the city.
Highways are fast and the hotel areas can be reached in about 30 minutes. (Hotel Sofitel is only 10 minutes away)
Specially trained guides will receive clients with a name board and, on the way to the hotel, they will give all the necessary information about arrangements for the client´s stay in Salvador.
For those who opt not to make use of this important service, other transport is available:
There are two air-conditioned airport buses that leave about every 30 minutes; one goes to the centre (Praca do Se) and the other passes by the Rodoviaria Bus terminal, ending at Comercio. The driver will stop wherever you ask him along the route.
Important: on departure, we recommend you to take a taxi to the airport as you may have to wait up to half an hour with all your luggage and often with no shade or shelter. It is probably worth paying the extra dollars to avoid the possible hassle.
There are also taxi companies at the airport. They work on a rate fixed by area, which is paid in advance at the company's own desk, where the price must be displayed. Prices range from $US 40 - 60, but if you speak some Portuguese you could negotiate a cheaper rate, closer to that charged by the common taxis. ($US 30 - 45)
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| Restaurants |
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Bahian cuisine is a must, without any comparison. Please refer to "Related Texts"
Amado - Av. Lafayete Coutinho, 660 (Comércio), tel. 3322-3520
Soho - Av. Contorno, 1010 (Bahia Marina) - tel. 3322-4554
Casa do Benin XX $$ - Lg. do Carmo, 17 (Pelourinho), tel. 326-3127; cc: Mc, V, 11h/24h; sun.11h/18h. closed mon.
@ Uaua XXX $ - R. Gregorio de Matos, 36 (Pelorinho), tel. 321-3089; cc: all, 11h3O/15h, 19h/21h30. Closed mon.
Dona Joana runs the well organized and friendly kitchen. Beautifully located in the old part of town.
@ Yemanja XXX $$ - Av. Otavio Mangabeira (Jd. Armacao), tel. 231-5770, 11h3O/24h.
@ Agda XXX $$ - R. Orlando Moscoso, 1 / Av. Otavio Mangabeira (Praia dos Artistas), tel. 231-2851 cc: Ae, 12h/16h3O, 18h/24h. Closed Tue.
@ Dona Chika-ka XXX $ - R. Jose Castro Rabelo, 10 (Pelourinho), tel. 321-1712; cc: all, 11h/15h, 18h/23h; sun 11h/16h.
@ Casa da Gamboa XXX $$ - R. Joao de Deus, 32 (Pelourinho), tel. 321-3393; cc: all, 12h/15h, 19h/1h; sun 12h/17h.
Casa da Gamboa XXX $$ - R. Newton Prado, 51 (Gamboa de Cima), tel. 336-1549; cc: V, 12h/15h, 19h/23h3O. Closed sun.
Cantinho do Mar XX $$ - Av. lemanja, 100 (Boca do Rio), tel. 230-8346; cc: Ac, Mc, V, 11h/24h.
Bargaco XX $$$ - R. P, Qd. 43, lt 18/19 (next to Centro de Convencoes) (Jd. Armacao), tel. 231-5141; cc: all, 12h/24h.
A Porteira X $$ - R. D. Eugenio Sales, 89 (Praia dos Artistas), tel. 231-7924; cc: all, 11h3O/15h3O, 18h/24h. Closed mon.
Solar do Unhao XX $$ * - (beira-mar) - Av. do Contorno (Gamboa), tel. 329-5580; cc: all, 12h/24h. Performs very interesting folklore show during dinner. Located in wonderful setting. A touristical "must".
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| Night Life |
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A must is the Pelourinho, located within the Colonial City. Declared part of World Heritage by UNESCO, it has become the largest cultural and leisure center in the city since the majority of the area has been completely restored by the State Government. With the implementation of the project Pelourinho Day and Night a wide variety of high quality shows and attractions on a permanent basis are presented. There are even activities for children.
In Quincas Berro d'Agua, Tereza Batista and Pedro Arcanjo Squares musical groups perform a variety of styles including jazz, blues, bossa nova, "Brazilian Popular Music" (MPB), samba and chorinho. In Jubiaba Square visitors can participate in live rehearsals of local carnival groups such as "Indios and Afros". On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, musicians perform on Pelo street corners. On Sundays it is the kids' turn to enjoy themselves with a variety of activities at Terreiro de Jesus.
For those who want to enjoy the build up to Carnival, the best night-time options are the rehearsals of the Afro-Carnival groups Ara Ketu and Olodum. The rehearsal of Olodum - the group that burst onto the international scene when it recorded with Paul Simon - attracts thousands of people, and it all happens on Tuesday evenings and Sunday afternoons in Pelourinho Square. The rehearsal of Ara Ketu, every Thursday on Rua Chile (near the Colonial City), is a meeting place for good-looking and free-spirited people. The bands that accompany the most well-known Carnival groups perform frequently at the city's most important dance clubs.
The hottest bars and restaurants are in the Pelo, the most renowned of which are Alambique, offering an incredible range of cachacas from all over Brazil and the famous "cravinho", a cane liquor and clove infusion; and Habeas Copus, among many others operating in the newly restored squares. In the Pelourinho, there is a feeling of security since the Tourist Police Battalion are headquartered in the Colonial City, to provide safety and useful information to tourists.
Along Salvador's coast there is a wide range of bars and restaurants. The "in" crowd and intellectuals prefer Rio Vermelho, where several traditional bars and restaurants are located, with new ones opening each summer. This neighborhood is also home to the Fish Market or Mercado do Peixe, where young and old alike wind up the evening with local delicacies and ice-cold beer. Another well-known neighborhood is Barra, where an eclectic mix of hundreds of bars and restaurants attracts a considerable number of visitors. The newest night-time attractions, micro-breweries and dance houses are located in Jardim dos Namorados. In Salvador, there are at least four big nightclubs where revelers can bop until the wee hours of the morning.
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Candomble - A Religious Syncretism In Brazil
In Bahia, the former capital of Brazil, the descendants of the inhabitants of South-West Nigeria have continued to worship their ancestral gods or Orixa to this very day, in spite of the time and distance which separates them from their place of origin. Bahians have not only maintained their ancestors' language but also their traditional songs, their musical instruments, and their dances. The African influence was felt by Brazilians from the earliest child-hood; children were brought up by black nannies who were generally of Yoruba descent. While being rocked to sleep, such children listened to Africa songs, they were told the fables of Africa, they were taught to fear the same super-natural beings as those known in Western Nigeria in case they misbehaved, and their health was protected by medicines made from the same leaves as the ones used in Africa.
Adopted at first by the African section of the population alone, this religious manifestation has gone on growing and gaining grounds in new surroundings and in our times it has taken an important place in the spiritual life of the country. This syncretism brings together, confuses and identifies the worship of Africa gods with the adoration of the saints in the catholic religion.
The liturgy itself and the ritual of candomble ceremonies in Bahia have been kept very pure. It is necessary to point out also the atmosphere of complete dignity and profound respect in which these cults are held and the sources of inspiration that they provide for the artists and the intellectuals. Painters and sculptors exhibit works in art galleries inspired on these beautiful ceremonies. In literature, some plays are based on the myths of these African gods. Composers try to transpose for voice and piano candomble tunes collected in Bahia. Dancers recreate certain legends of these gods using the choreography from the dances of the orixa worshippers.
WHAT IS CANDOMBLE
The name candomble is applied to the place where the Brazilian perform their religious feasts. The candomble temple walls are made of clay and its floor of brick or comment; the initiated must dance barefooted, dragging their feet on the ground.
The spectators segregated according to sex, sit down on benches, chairs and sofas. Besides them, is the drums place, isolated by a small wall; on the other side, on a shelf, there is a statue of the house patron saint. The aim of the candomble is to propitiate the possession of the initiated by the god. Each individual is under the protection of a particular deity, but only some have the privilege of incorporating their god. After the first 'visit' of an orixa to a person's body, this person must undergo the initiation rites. They involve seclusion for a certain period of time, the offering of periodic sacrifices, following certain rules, etc. As a result of the initiation rites, the neophyte acquires privileges as the possibility of becoming an initiator; the capacity of incorporating the god; and prestige in the religious community. The initiated one is then blessed by the Pai de Santo or Mãe de Santo, the headmasters of the candomble house.
A sacrifice is made at the beginning of all candomble rituals, accompanied by the music of the drums and songs. Each god, or orixa, has a particular invocation song and rhythm. Sacred dances are then performed by the 'Mother', the sacrificer, and senior initiated. After that, an offering is presented to Exu, the messenger god, and his permission is solicited to begin the public ceremony and to complete it without problems.
At the end of the candomble ceremony, all the incarnated orixa dressed in their ritual garments come to the room and dance, one by one, expressing their divine characteristics.
CANDOMBLE GODS, OR ORIXA
Oxala
Oxala´s counterpart in the Catholic religion is the crucified Christ. Friday is the day dedicated to him and his favorite color is white. He is the god of creation and father of all the other Orixa. He assumes the figure of an old man, placid and benevolent. He is sometimes called 'Grandfather' by candomble practicers. Oxala, as the other main gods, is bisexual, representing their all-embracing powers which comprehends the control of both sexes.
Yemanja
Yemanja is the goddess of creation, mother of all orixa, also known as our lady of the conception, or the Virgin Mary. She is the sea-goddess, nymph of fresh water. Crystal-clear is her favorite color and Saturday is the day devoted to her. The person possessed by Yemanja presents the archetype of the haughty Great Mother. Her dance is solemn; she imitates the movements of the sea.
Omulu
Omulu´s counterpart is Saint Lazarus, the god of the epidemic diseases, mainly the smallpox. His colors are red and black and his day is Monday. Omolu has the power of producing or extinguishing diseases and is, therefore, very much respected by the people, to the extent that someone has to touch the ground with the fingers, in reverence, every time his name is pronounced. He is also known as the 'doctor of the poor'. He is characterized by a repulsive aspect, with his face covered and dances very slowly, as an old man.
Nanan
Nanan is the water-goddess, the eldest nymph of the yoruba pantheon. She is Saint Anne for the Catholics, her colors are white and blue, and her day is Tuesday. Nanan is known as Grandmother' and one possessed by her dances very slowly, feigning to rock a baby to sleep.
Xango
Xango´s Catholic counterpart is Saint Jerome, the god of thunder and lighting . His day is Wednesday and his colors are red and white. His symbol is a double-axe and he dances to lively, warlike rhythms, brandishing his weapon.
Yansan
Yansan, or Saint Barbara for the Catholics, is the wife of Xango and the goddess of wind and storms. Her color is red and her is Saturday. She is depicted as an active, tempestuous, restless woman. To drive away the bad spirits, she only has to extend her arms, a gesture she often repeats in her agile, nervous and beautiful dances.
Oxum
Oxum is the goddess of beauty, of coquetry. She dresses in a beautiful golden yellow and wears many kinds of bracelets. Her dance expresses her femininity and graciousness, feigning to bathe in a river, taking off her clothes and looking at herself in a mirror.
Oxossi
Oxossi's day is Thursday and his favorite colors are green and blue. He is also known as Saint George and he is the god of the hunters. His symbols are a bow and an arrow which he holds upright, as if hunting, while dancing.
Ogun
Ogun is the god of the blacksmiths, warriors and agriculturers. His symbols are all the iron instruments, especially the helmet and sword. He is the patron of the handicraftsmen and the inventor of the industries. He dances brandishing a sword or feigning a due, with a ferocious look on his face.
Exu
Exu is sometimes identified with the devil for his love of disturbances, his phallic characteristics, his predilection for alcoholic beverages and for his moody temperament. He is actually the messenger, a mediator between men and gods. He is the first to be invoked in a candomble feast. It is necessary to please Exu with his favorites gifts, so that everything goes well in a ceremony. He usually has a jocose and challenging appearance, and a cheerful but sinister look on his face.
Capoeira - Dance or Fight?
Capoeira is a dance of rare physical beauty. It is also violent and very fast, a delicate and astute fight - the highest choreographic expression of a suffering race.
Capoeira is a word with no translation, though possibly somehow connected with the word poeira, meaning dust. Capoeira is a dance of rare physical beauty. It is also violent and very fast, a delicate and astute fight - the highest choreographic expression of a suffering race.
The capoeira appeared in Brazil with the arrival of the slaves. At first, its performance was persecuted by the senhores de Engenho, the farmers-owners, and later by the police, because of the highly dangerous nature of the capoeira as a mean of aggression as well as defense.
The present, playful capoeira is done accompanied by the sound of musical instruments such as reco-reco, caxixí and tambourines, but chiefly by one exotic instrument which is the very soul of the capoeira: the berimbau de barriga or simply the berimbau. There is a great variety of rhythm in the sounds of the berimbau: Angola, Sao Bento Grande, Sao Bento Pequeno, Santa Maria, Angelinha and Cavalaria are the names of just a few of them. The dancers, moving in accordance with the rhythm, use many different golpes (strikes) to hit the adversary with legs and feet only. All these golpes have again their names: rabo de arraia (tail of a kite), volta ao mundo around the world), tombo de ladeira (slope tumble), rasteira (tripping), bencao (blessing), martelo (hammer), etc.
During the vadiacao (idleness), the rest between the fighting dances, they sing the chulas country dances tunes) which usually speak of the feats of the famous capoeiristas, of tales from the past, or give challenge to other capoeira-dancers, or even to the audience.
Cuisine - Food For The Body And For The Spirit
Hardly, if ever, you can find a kind of people who enjoys cooking and eating as much as people from Bahia. Eating, in Bahia, is not merely a matter of physiologic needs, but it also involves a whole complex rituals and beliefs. The food in Bahia is mostly influenced by African traditions from slavery times; since the 1500's. The Africans brought with them the candomble', a religion which still exists in Bahia, and most parts of Brazil; practising candomble' involves praising gods of thunder, lightning, hunt, etc., and giving gifts to them, especially gifts of food which are placed on a special kind of alter to the specific god you want to praise. These foods are later on shared with friends who come to participate of the ceremonies or members of the family. Of course, this is only the religious aspect of Bahian gastronomy, and it functions almost as an excuse for partying and having friends over to eat and enjoy the good food. There is also the business side the whole thing, run by the 'baianas', women dressed in very colorful skirts and blouses, bringing with them their trays full of small appetizers and sweets that are consumed by the native population and tourists. They are everywhere on the streets of Bahia and at lunch time the 'baianas' beat by far the competition of fast-food houses.
Palm oil and pepper are the main ingredients in any bahian food. The palm oil, extracted from the palm tree (Elaeis Guinneasis), originally from the African coast, gives the typical dishes an attractive reddish yellow color and a delicious smell that is supposed to 'open your appetite', as we say over here. The pepper gives a hot taste, so strong that leads the one who is eating to indecision: to stop eating because it's too hot, or not to stop eating because it's extremely delicious. This pepper (Granum Paradisi) comes from India and it's supposed to motivate the stomach, liver and intestines to work better, digesting well all the food. These two main ingredients are very healthy and make digestion of the typical dishes very easy to the whole body.
With no doubt, the major influence on Bahian cuisine comes from Africa, but we also have a strong influence from the native Indians and the Portuguese who colonized Brazil. The Indians contributed mainly with cassava flour, or 'gari', which works mostly as a topper to juicy foods and also gives a nice smell and taste to the foods. From this kind of flour many other side-dishes are made and they generally accompany stews and soups. The Portuguese contribution is mainly on desserts, fish dishes and olive oil-based dishes. All those influences ended up being mixed up by the Bahian cuisine experts and that's gives our cuisine a whole new taste.
So, if suddenly you find someone telling you he is feeding his spirit and has in front of him a delicious and juicy dish, don't be amazed: you are in Bahia.
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